| The mountain area visited between Munich and Venice |
Let the trek start! We had six very good days forward of the trek in Munich, Innsbruck, and Monguelfo/Welsberg within the South Tyrol of northeast Italy. The Dolomites aare positioned on the japanese finish of the Alps.
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| Overland route and modes of journey to the trailhead |
We took many types of transport to get to the trailhead – double-decker bus, trains, and at last a non-public transport van from Monguelfo to the trailhead close to Cortina d’Ampezzo. Earlier than we start an outline of the trek, I embrace two final seems on the space close to Monguelfo.
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| Within the Val de Santa Maddalena northeast of Monguelfo – that is Bavarian! |
We took public transport to a secondary valley referred to as Santa Maddalena. A lot of milk cows graze these pastures and dairy farming is dominant right here.
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| The mountains within the Val de Santa Maddalena are usually not the Dolomites limestone |
Day 1 – June 21
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| Don, Anne and Helen on the trailhead close to Cortina’s D’Ampezzo |
Lastly, we started our trek on June 21 at Sant Umberto at an elevation of 4,900 ft. That is the doorway to the Pure Park of the Ampezzo created in 1990. Nonetheless, this space can be a part of the Regole d’Ampezzo, a collective type of possession of the pastures and forests in these mountains. The primary documentation of the regola right here goes again to not less than the yr 1225! You possibly can learn extra about this fascinating European establishment here and here. Study in regards to the administration of this collective heritage here. All of that is info I discovered solely after our trek and in composing the weblog. So fascinating!
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| Google Earth picture of the primary two days of trekking. Refugios in orange. |
The annotated Google Earth picture above exhibits our trailhead positioned simply north of Cortina d’Ampezzo. I am going to publish a Google Earth picture for every section of the hike and the above exhibits the route for days 1 and a pair of. We started in a forest, entered a meadow at Ra Stua, then climbed up switchbacks on a dust highway to the plateau the place our first Refugio, Fodara Vedla is positioned. The whole distance on day 1 was about 5.5 miles and on day 2 was about the identical (though the 2nd day felt extra like 8 miles!).
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| A view to the north of the Dolomites from close to Ra Stua |
All through the hike, I seen a delicate however persistent northeast dip to the rocks (right down to the appropriate on this view). Localized faulting and folding sometimes would interrupt this pervasive dip nevertheless it was noticed on quite a few days within the mountains. Once I took this picture, about an hour into the nine-day trek, I couldn’t know the way prevalent the dip can be – solely as the times rolled on did it change into obvious to me.
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| Trying south as Helen crosses a bridge |
We had bought a self-guided tour bundle that included 12 nights lodging, transportation to and from the trek, and an in depth itinerary to get us the place we would have liked to go. The instructions may have been lots clearer on this primary day – or have been we simply in want of getting used to the vagaries of European mountain journey? They measure distance in time. Nonetheless, not the entire signposts or junctions we encountered have been talked about in our notes for this stretch of path.
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| We finally made it to our first lunchtime refugio, Ra Stua |
About 1.5 hours on we loved a cappuccino and a few scrumptious French potatoes at Ra Stua. Hey, that is fairly civilized mountain climbing and fairly good!
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| Figuring it out at Ra Stua |
Like lots locations world wide, the folks accountable for making indicators or describing routes might not journey themselves and since they’re intimately conversant in their dwelling, they do not all the time clarify issues that may be readily understood by guests. It took us a couple of days to sense and really feel what the locals have identified for hundreds of years. Journey is deadly to prejudice – Mark Twain.
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| On the “path” after Ra Stua |
It was a bit stunning to be taught that “the path” truly included many roads, a couple of of them even paved. Actually, it wasn’t “a path” – it was many trails and with completely different numbers which might be all patched collectively to kind what they name the AV 1 or the Alta By way of 1. It did make for good mountain climbing.
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| Climbing up from Ra Stua |
Simply previous Ra Stua we left the valley and started a climb as much as a plateau to the west (a couple of 750 ascent). I had purchased a pair of recent mountain climbing pants with actually deep pockets earlier than the journey and stored pulling out a bandana to wipe the sweat off of my brow. Once we obtained to this place above, I reached into my pocket and the bandana wasn’t there. So Helen (dressed within the yellow shirt above) provided to return down the switchbacks to get it. What a sweetheart! She went down 4 or 5 switchbacks and got here again with out it. Seems that the pockets on the pants are REALLY deep and the bandana was hiding deep down. My unhealthy. However it gave me an opportunity to take a look at the Triassic limestone that might be our beacon for the following 9 days.
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| On the plateau and searching south to Sas dla Para (higher left) – it’s proven on the final Google Earth picture – the one with the paths on it |
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| Refugio Fodara Vedla |
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| Observe the reflection within the window too |
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| Fodara Vedla eating room |
Each refugio we skilled was like a small, rustic lodge full with working water, kitchens, full bars, beds, nearly all the pieces. And that is how day 1 ended. We had one in all our greatest Primi Piatti’s right here (First Plate) – an eggplant ragu -lovely!
Day 2 – June 22
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| A final have a look at Fodara Vedla and Sas dla Para (picture by H. Ranney) |
The day started with a descent that was so steep all of us commented about it. It was about 1400 ft and totally on a paved highway (to resupply Fodara Vedla). However it was solely paved as a result of automobiles wouldn’t be capable of acquire traction have been it dust. Our legs ached on the base of the hill.
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| Down, down, down |
On sections that weren’t as steep, the highway reverted to dust. However on the curves and the steep stretches – wow! You actually needed to watch your footing. The worst half – our subsequent refugio was positioned on the identical elevation because the final and we must make the climb again up on the opposite aspect. Observe the identical northeast dip to the rocks forward. Many caves might be seen within the bedding planes of the strata.
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| Refugio Pederú within the Val de Tamersc |
You possibly can see the Refugio Pederú within the valley flooring however notice the particles stream coming off the mountain. In all places we went we noticed proof for latest occasions that had despatched large volumes of rock down these steep partitions. It was spectacular and I took many pictures of them.
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| Artwork set up on the valley flooring at Pederú |
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| Cappuchino Italiano! |
Helen would not usually drink espresso however the lure of a mid-morning cappuccino in Italy was too nice a barrier! They have been scrumptious.
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| The highway to Refugio Lavarella |
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| After leaving Pederú |
A steep climb was made on a path to the west of the highway (each seen with the path on the left and the highway on the appropriate on this view north again towards Pederú). Mountain and energy bikes took the highway and hikers took the path.
It appeared to go on longer than it ought to have or truly did. However the surroundings was grand!
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| Signal to Refugio Lavarella |
Necessary shoe racks within the refugios
All the refugios have shoe racks positioned within the basement of behind the bar. Upon coming into one removes their mountain climbing sneakers and takes them to the shoe rack. This one at Refugio Lavarella has heated posts to dry out the boots (it usually rains and there may be moist sneakers).
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| Refugio Lavarella |
You might have seen on the signal two pictures up an advert for beer. Lavarella has its personal brewery and so they introduced it as the best brewery in Europe. The beer was very tasty.
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| Sundown from Lavarella |
Thus completed our first two days. I will be posting extra quickly Thanks for studying.
